In the heart of Brazil’s Amazon rainforest, the town of Itaituba stands as a focal point of a high-stakes gold rush. This bustling hub of illegal mining, driven by both desperation and determination, paints a vivid picture of resilience amidst adversity. Central to this narrative is José Maria Silva de Souza, known as Zé Maria, whose daily life embodies the struggle and spirit of Itaituba’s gold miners.
Zé Maria’s Daily Battle: Navigating the Gold Mining World
Every morning, Zé Maria’s routine begins with a series of essential tasks. His day starts with trips to the supermarket and gas station, followed by gathering his workers and a cook. By late morning, his truck, filled with supplies and crew, begins the 90 km (56 mi) journey through the muddy roads leading to his mining sites. This trip is fraught with tension; recently, federal environmental agents destroyed two of his backhoes, significantly disrupting his operations.
“We live and breathe mining here,” Zé Maria explains, his deep voice reflecting his frustration. “Now, the government is making it increasingly difficult for us to continue.”
Upon reaching a remote forest area, Zé Maria and his team are confronted with the remnants of a charred backhoe, a painful reminder of recent government interventions. Despite the setback, the team scrambles to salvage any usable parts from the destroyed equipment, hoping to recover some of its value, which is around 1.5 million reais ($263,000).
Nearby, another group works with a tatuzão—a large, cumbersome pump and hose system used for extracting gold. Although less efficient than a backhoe, the tatuzão represents Zé Maria’s backup plan. “I’m not ready to give up,” he asserts, resolute to keep his operations running despite the challenges.
The Transgarimpeira Road: A Crucial Link in Illegal Mining
The gold mining operations in Itaituba are heavily concentrated along the Transgarimpeira road, a notorious route named after the garimpo, a term for small-scale, often illegal mining. Spanning 190 km (118 mi), this road is vital to Itaituba’s mining industry. Itaituba, located in the Amazonian state of Pará, is a key player in Brazil’s illegal gold trade, producing approximately 75% of the nation’s illicit gold, according to a report by the Federal University of Minas Gerais.
The Transgarimpeira road cuts through a reserve intended for artisanal mining. However, the area is now dominated by large-scale operations and advanced machinery, such as Zé Maria’s backhoes. This shift has significantly increased environmental damage, with a single backhoe performing the work that would take a tatuzão 40 days to achieve.
The rise in mining activities has led to heightened conflicts between miners and environmental authorities. The establishment of several conservation units over mining reserves has exacerbated these tensions, with illegal miners facing increasing pressure from federal agents.
Government Crackdowns and Their Consequences
The Brazilian federal government, under President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva, has intensified its crackdown on illegal mining. The federal conservation agency ICMBio has spearheaded operations on the Transgarimpeira, deploying helicopters and teams of police officers to target illegal mines. In 2023 alone, inspectors destroyed 150 backhoes and 600 dredgers, reducing deforestation associated with illegal mining by 30% compared to the previous year.
The government has also implemented stricter regulations on the gold trade. Electronic invoices are now required, and financial institutions that previously bypassed gold provenance checks have lost their “good faith” status. These measures have driven official buyers out of the local market, creating a void filled by illegal traders. Experts caution that Brazil has shifted from being a gold-laundering hub to a supplier of illegal gold to other nations.
Gustavo Geiser, a forensics expert with the Federal Police, acknowledges the transitional nature of Brazil’s situation. “We’re in a period of transition,” he notes. “The market will have to adjust itself, but it requires firmness during this phase.”
Local Resistance and Social Impact
The crackdown has sparked significant backlash from Itaituba’s mining community. In April, protests erupted when miners demonstrated against the destruction of their equipment. Carlos Mendes Moares, a mine owner, expressed his frustration with the government’s actions. “They came onto my property, burned my excavator, and destroyed everything without mercy,” he lamented.
In Creporizão, a village located at the end of the Transgarimpeira road, the death of a young miner from a snakebite highlights the harsh realities faced by the community. This tragedy underscores broader issues of inadequate healthcare and the precarious nature of life in mining areas.
Despite these challenges, Creporizão and other nearby villages have evolved from rudimentary settlements into more developed communities. The village now boasts shops, bakeries, and beauty salons, all supported by the influx of gold money. However, recent crackdowns have led to a decline in economic activity, leaving some businesses struggling.
Wescley Tomaz, a local politician and former miner, is a prominent figure in this transition. Running for mayor of Itaituba, Tomaz represents the interests of the mining community and argues that the difficulties faced by miners are partly due to federal regulations and conservation efforts. “The whole issue of illegal mining and environmental crime is the government’s fault,” Tomaz asserts.
The Complex Landscape of Gold Mining in Itaituba
Gold mining in Itaituba encompasses a diverse group of individuals, from seasoned miners like Zé Maria to newcomers seeking quick profits. Many miners, such as Edvaldo Pereira dos Santos, leave other jobs temporarily to pursue gold, attracted by the potential for substantial earnings. Yet, the pursuit of gold comes with significant personal and environmental costs.
For some, mining has been a path to social advancement. Rosimeire Gomes de Souza, for example, began working in the mines as a young adult and now owns multiple backhoes. Similarly, Maria Aldenora Azevedo Rodrigues, once a cleaner, now enjoys a more comfortable lifestyle thanks to her work in the gold mines.
However, the sector is fraught with issues, including substance abuse and financial instability. The environmental impact is severe, with deforestation and pollution affecting local ecosystems. The widespread use of mercury in gold extraction further exacerbates these problems, impacting both the environment and human health.
Conclusion
The story of Itaituba’s illegal gold mining industry is one of resilience and struggle against a backdrop of environmental and regulatory challenges. As Brazil navigates the complexities of regulating this lucrative yet destructive industry, the future of Itaituba remains uncertain. The interplay between economic desperation, environmental conservation, and political power continues to shape the region’s fate, highlighting the need for comprehensive solutions to address both immediate and long-term issues associated with illegal gold mining.
